My friend CJ told me she would hike the AT with me. We talked a lot about it and even hiked on the Little Blue Trace Trail a couple of times. She has been a good friend and supporter for a long time and we began discussing this when we were both still working. I was so excited to have a partner, at the same time I was thinking that I wouldn't get the "alone" time I wanted and yes, needed during this hike. But, during a recent 6 mile hike with a full pack she broke the news.
      Now, I have to take a minute to talk about my "full pack" I have crammed all kinds of things into my backpack, but I don't have all my stuff yet. I've been trying to make it heavy and also fill it with things I need, but the bottom line is...I don't have all my stuff and I don't know how to pack a pack. I'm close and mentally, I am ready and my pack it heavy. CJ and I talked about our packs and at the end of our 6 miles while we were waiting for my husband, Lyle to pick us up, she asked me how much my pack weighed. I don't know, our scale doesn't work. We tried to figure out how I could find out but then it hit me. I don't really want to know. Nothing good could come from me knowing how much I'm carrying. I'm packing it the best way I know how with the things I think I'm going to need and I'm hiking the Appalachian Trail. Period.
     First, CJ tried to convince me that we should start hiking the Katy Trail in Clinton, Missouri. We could make reservations at the B&Bs along the way until we get to St Charles, Missouri. I kept my temper and disappointment under control and I told her that I would be happy to hike the Katy Trail with her next year but, I was going to start hiking the AT in a couple of weeks. She worked on me a little bit more, pointing out that YOU'RE NOT A HIKER. Ouch, true, but it still made me mad. Come on, she's the one that's been encouraging me. It seems like she's the only one but, I know in my heart that I have lots of people rooting for me and I'm going to do my best not to let myself down.

     It takes some preparation to get ready for the AT. Lots of gear. You need a tent. Bub wanted me to get a two man tent and I said, "Why don't we both get one man tent?" He said, "No" I don't know exactly what his reason was but I'd like to think it was so we wouldn't have to carry as much between us. Who knows, I got a two man tent, that I can put up in about nine minutes. I was putting it up in the Missouri Ozarks at our little cabin and didn't stake it the first time. The wind came up and my little tent started rolling toward the water. Note to hikers: Always, always stake your tent. Also, I feel it's kinda small for two people, but I'm trying to think only the best of my brother-in-law.
     You also need a sleeping bag for two seasons, a cook stove, water purifier, walking poles. I didn't understand THAT until we hiked in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Trying to ford a stream with just your good balance could be disastrous. Hiking boots are only good for about 500 miles, then it's time to get new ones. Clothing that will "wick away the moisture from your body" and a backpack to hold it all. I went to Bass Pro to get my back pack and told the cute young man what I wanted it for. To his credit he didn't laugh or even change his expression. He said he would have to measure me to get the right fit. He was so cute, and helpful. My pack fits perfectly. You need to buy food and a rope to hang it.  My niece, Amy told me about her husband who hung his food only to have a raccoon climb the tree and open his bag. The bugger was going through it like a dissatisfied shopper throwing down what he didn't like. Jeff was happy to get his granola bar back and some other things but he had to wait until the raccoon was finished with it's lunch to move on. You also need a little hand shovel to bury your poop. "Leave no trace" They recommend digging a hole about 18" deep, roughly 200 ft from the Trail. I figured I'd go about 1/2 mile from the trail because I don't want anyone walking up on me with my behind hanging out. So, I think I'm set, a couple of grand later, except for the small self inflatable pad that goes under your sleeping bag. Oh yeah, I definitely need one of those.

Dec. 2011
          A long time ago my sister, Theresa moved to Georgia and for some unknown reason sent me a copy of the Appalachian Trail. I thought it was interesting and filed it away, not thinking about it for a number of years. Later, about 25 years later, I started thinking about hiking. I love the outdoors, the smell of pine, the quiet and peace, hearing only the twittering of the birds. I bought a copy of Backpacker magazine and without me realizing it, there was an article about the Appalachian Trail. That's when I decided "I'm hiking the AT" My niece, Cristy said it was a sign and that I must do it or regret it forever.
          I began researching the AT. The idea was conceived by a young man named Benton MacKaye to link the ridgetops of the Appalachian Mountains to the South. It took many years and many hands but the Trail was completed in 1937. It runs from Katahdin Mountain in Maine to Springer Mountain in Georgia, and is 2,175 miles in length. The Trail is not complete, nor will it be complete because the Trail Associations all along the trail continue to improve it.


          Remote for detachment,
          narrow for chosen company,
          winding for leisure,
          lonely for contemplation,
          the Trail leads not merely north and south
          but upward to the body, mind and soul of man.
                  by Harold Allen


     The more I talked the about it the more people, friends and relatives became more supportive. A number of them have actually said they would hike part of the trail with me. One day during Christmas time 2009 I was talking about it with my brother-in-law Lloyd (Bub). He said he was going to retire in 2011 and he would hike the trail with me. We could start at the end of February and that would give us enough time to make it to Maine before the park closes in October. The preparations began. We day hiked the Blue Ridge Mountains in the summer of 2010 and I began collecting the equipment I would need to hike the AT.
      Well, my beloved brother-in-law passed away in October 2010 and I just didn't have the heart to begin the hike that next February. I have a stone that I carry from Bub's funeral, it's a river rock that the minister suggested we hold on to until we are through grieving. I intend to carry him with me on this hike and when I reach Katahdin I'll place it on the cairn I'll find there. So, I've spent the first year of my retirement just thinking about it and getting ready.
     We are presently in Georgia with my sister and her family. The RV is parked out front waiting for parts and then we need to head home for the Holidays and Doctor's appointments. Theresa brought home a book from the library and in it is an article about the Smoky Mountains and the 70 miles of AT that runs through it. The author of the article writes,"I didn't do it to learn who I was or what I was. Instead, I hoped to understand what it was to live simply and to complete a large challenge." That's me!
     My niece, Amy took me to Springer Mountain trail head so I actually got to hike the trail a little bit. There was a metal sign imbedded in a rock announcing your position and a sign in book for the hikers. We looked everywhere for the book and Amy found it. It's a metal box with a weighted lid slid in between the rocks below the trail head. I signed the book with my trail name "Tripper" promising I'd be back next March to start the hike.
"You start a new life on the trail, leaving your background behind." Heather Sable, author of the article.
     Theresa also brought home another book called "Ignore Everybody and 39 Other Keys to Creativity" by Hugh MacLeod.  gapingvoid.com   I know that I will be keeping a journal on my trip just in case I realized some wonderful realities or had some profound thoughts that needed to be recorded, but after reading his book I have decided to write my own book, so here goes...
   

                                   

AT conservancy

Wednesday we drove to the little town outside Harper’s Ferry to the RV camp. There was nothing but dirt so the next day we went to the Harper’s Ferry National Park, caught the trolley and went into Harper’s Ferry. It’s a really neat little town, lots of history about the Civil War. We walked all over and into the little shops, read all the history in the windows. We ate at a place that served wine and Reuben sandwiches with coleslaw instead of sauerkraut. It was really good. They also wanted to put a hash brown patty on it but I wouldn’t let them.

First I ‘hiked’ over the railway bridge over the Potomac toward Maine. Then I ‘hiked’ toward Georgia and the AT conservancy. We even saw some hikers in town. Heading south was more like the trail I miss so much. I didn’t have my hiking gear or boots so the rocks and uneven path were difficult to navigate. I passed Jefferson rock where Thomas Jefferson stood overlooking the Shenandoah River and said something significant.

My intentions were to hike to the conservancy which is a blue blaze trail and goes into a small town but Lyle was being a cry baby Sally, so we went back and caught the bus then drove to the Conservancy.  Everything you want to know about the Appalachian Trail you can find out there. I looked at the book to see if I could recognize any of the people I met in Georgia but I didn’t see anyone. I don’t think any of them wanted to take the time to stop and see it. I’ve grown to love the Appalachian Trail. It’s become a part of me and I want to become a part of it. I really like that it’s marked so ‘Tripper’ has a hard time getting lost. (I may get turned around but I’ve never been lost).  I like that it has been maintained by groups, societies and clubs for over 80 years. I want to see it all- all the shelters and wildflowers. I have a book now of the wildflowers on the AT. Not just the Smoky Mountains. I love the physical aspect of having a goal and exerting myself every day to achieve that goal, that shelter, that next town. I want to see and explore every little town along the way.

Everyone I speak to still asks if I was alone. For me, ‘alone’ is the only way to truly experience the trail. I believe in the words, “You have to hike your own hike”. If I would have had my gear and boots, I would have left my husband behind. No one can really understand unless they have hiked the trail with the attitude of seeing and experiencing all of it. It’s a part of me now. 

Tripper's pics from the AT

the Appalachian Trail goes along the ridge on right

Tripper on the bridge

The trail at Harper's Ferry

Off the trail

I’m off the trail now. I just enjoyed Richmond, VA. I mean, I knew at the most, I wouldn’t get to hike the whole Appalachian Trail, what with all the delays. First, my husband wanting me to wait until April, then my brother and his surgery in mid-April. I started way late in early May. I knew then that I wouldn’t get to do it all. But Lyle and I planned this trip until November and I always felt that if I didn’t do it this year that I wouldn’t have another opportunity to do it. I felt that way until I met Rangely. She convinced me that the AT really wasn’t meant to be hiked all the way through. To do that, you miss too much, the beauty of the forests along the way. Each and every shelter has its own uniqueness. The people are so fun and different with every walk of life and sense of humor. I would have already missed so much if I hadn’t been a ‘shelter hopper’. The woman who hiked it in 45 days and had people meeting her every night couldn’t possibly have enjoyed the sunrises or sunsets over the mountains, or the part about missing real food and flush toilets. I met a park ranger in the Smokies who said she did it in 5 ½ months. I wonder if she identified any wild flowers or enjoyed any of the little towns along the way.

I am not done with the Appalachian Trail. I haven’t seen enough or hiked enough. After Washington, DC, we’re going to Harpers Ferry, the midway point and the headquarters for the AT. I’d like to hike into and out of there, even if they are only day hikes, and then to Maine and Katahdin. No, I’m not through with the AT, not yet. What I don’t get to hike this year, I’ll be back, maybe with Rangely. At least I hope she’ll call and let me know her plans, I think she will.

Day forty

Tripper's feet

Rangely, Stonewall, JP and I all took pictures of each other and headed out of No Business shelter around 8 a.m. The boys took off and left us and I kept up with Rangely for a little while. It was only 5.7 miles to the Nobchucky River so we expected a short hike. I spotted the Temple Hill sign and took that trail until I realized it was a blue blazed trail so I followed it back up and promptly followed the AT back to the shelter. You could have heard my "NO!" reverberate through the treetops for miles. My being directionally challenged is usually funny until it's not funny anymore. Turning today into a 14 mile hike with sore feet was not funny. I was mad. Mad that I didn't read that Temple Hill sign and see that it was blue blazed. Mad that I didn't check my compass when I got back from the bottom of that trail. I allowed myself a few tears, but I was mad at myself for not being more aware. My mad got me to Uncle Johnny's hostel in 3 hours. I saw a few of the young boys that passed us yesterday and Sully, who must have laid over and took a zero day. I took my boots off and threw them away, and waited for Lyle. I'm glad I'm off the trail for a while. I need to let my feet heal, and I'm looking forward to my bed.

Day thirty-nine

The day started off cool. It had really rained the night before and I left my long sleeve shirt on. Oh, I think I lost more weight in my left breast than my right. I was laying there in the middle of the night, after getting up to pee for the third time, feeling my pelvic bones and enjoying the concavity of my tummy. I decided to check out my boobs, and it's hard to tell in this sports bra, but I think the left one is smaller. I tried to check it out again this morning but it is hard to do. I need to see a mirror.

Most of the 10 miles today was downhill, but it warmed up in a hurry and I had to stop and change my shirt. Rangely had stopped to take  picture but her phone was dead, so I let her use mine. I took lots of pictures today and I took my time. The eleven boys that have been with us stayed at the shelter, or some of them did and they passed me while I was resting. They said they needed to keep going probably all the way to Erwin because one of them is ill. I only saw one stranger on the trail, he was headed to Springer. His name is Rock Lobster and he's a teacher. He told me that he'd been heading up hill since he left the shelter, which sounded great to me. The trail went back and forth and meandered around. Crossed a couple of streams. It would have been a great hike today if my feet hadn't been screaming. I'm gonna take a nice little picture of those boots, then I'm gonna pitch them. I can't believe I could hike 200 miles with no blisters then pow! When I got to the shelter Rangely was already here but she'd waited for me to walk back down the stream. There we was JP and Stonewall and we warned them that this was the water source. I got some duct tape from them for my feet. They camped right down the hill from us and I was delighted that they started a fire. You know I love a fire. So I pulled a couple of good size logs from our fire ring and headed down the hill. It's a good thing too, because all they had was kindling. I went and got the rest of it and the two boys and I had a nice fire. The perfect end for the last night of a week of backpacking.

Day thirty-eight

Mud skiing is a sport you don’t hear about often. It’s a lot like snow skiing… kinda. Anyway, you have the poles. It doesn’t take a lot of mud and falling hurts more. You don’t go really far, but you do go fast. This day held a little bit of everything. Rangely and I left Hogback Ridge Shelter about 8 a.m. It got balmy and kind of warm. Lyle said there were going to be thunder storms but it didn’t start off that way. The trail went up and down and at one point it started to sprinkle. We had put our pack covers on in an effort to ward off thunderstorms. It worked yesterday. I went through Sam’s Gap which is on I-26 and met a man and woman and their two grandsons. The boys, Stonewall & JP, were hiking on to Erwin where their grandparents live. Things got exciting after that. It seemed like all I did was climb and then I found a big field with beautiful views. At one point it started storming and blowing so I put on my rain jacket. Then it got hot so I took it off. I was in the wide open area where I couldn’t see 50 feet around me because of the fog, and the wind was blowing and little birds with a white tail feather were hopping ahead of me on the trail.

I had to climb up this hill and I was cold and wet and I am STILL cold and damp. I got to Bald Mountain Shelter around 4:30 p.m. which means I’m doing better than a mile an hour. 
I feel like such a slug. A guy by the name of Sully came in last night. He is doing 20 miles a day. He and Rangley talked about running and marathons. He's planning on doing a half Iron Man in the Fall. Rangely talked about hiking in the Grand Tetons and starting when she was a little girl. I feel like such a slug. 
The birds this morning are Eastern Towhee.

Day thirty-seven

Day 37

On the trail. I couldn’t get a fire going for anything. I wasted 9 squares of toilet paper. About 9 young guys came and camped out back of the shelter, between the shelter and the privy. I had to stumble through their camp before they woke up and then later when they were stirring. A 30 something couple camped right below the shelter. I awoke to birds singing this morning. Rangely knew what they were, wood thrush.

She is an amazing woman. She knows birds and trees. She’s hiked Nepal in her 40’s. She’s hiked up and down the AT. She’s just made up her mind to hike Georgia to Maine in sections, 500 miles a year.

I left Flint Mountain Shelter about 8 a.m. It was an almost 9 mile hike and I didn’t want to get to the shelter late. It was such a nice day and I only had about a 1600 foot climb. But it wasn’t all at the same time. The first part of the day, there were streams all along the way. I actually passed Rangely because she was making phone calls.

The streams were really lovely and the day was breezy. The best way to catch a breeze is to stand facing it with your feet spread to balance your pack. Then spread your arms out and rest them on your trekking poles, tip your chin up and close your eyes. Sometimes you can get a deep breath of forest; I got a whiff of pine.  

Yesterday I smelled a skunk. I got out of there in a hurry. I came across a fence. You had to go through sideways; there was a graveyard with four stones. There were bridges made from logs and this huge mushroom. I know it was polyporous sulphurous before it lost its color.

I saw some great scenery and wild flowers and when I stopped to take a picture of the highway on the other mountain I saw that I had 2 bars on my phone, so I called Lyle. We talked for about 20 minutes. It was great! I can’t wait to see him and start day hiking with him. 

Day thirty-six

Man, did it storm last night! When I got to Terry Cabin Shelter Rangeley had already decided to stay there. Good decision, because it started raining before we had dinner and two guys came running up from the trail, soaking wet. Steve and Eclipso had done 14 miles, and after they ate and changed clothes they camped out.

Today was a really nice hike. I came upon an open field, dropped my pack and walked all the way around the field looking for the blaze. The trail followed this road most of the day. I saw a blaze and I took it and it brought me right back to the field! I must have missed the first one. Oops! The road was muddy but the air was cool.

There was a Bassett Memorial honoring a 1968 thru-hiker and a climb down and then up these big boulders, then back to the road. There was a beautiful park-like setting with the Shelton Graves head stones right there.  Then back to the road.

*Editor’s note: Historical moment- Just north of Big Butt are the gravestones of William and David Shelton. They were uncle and nephew who lived in Madison County, N.C., but enlisted in the Union army during the Civil War. When returning to a family gathering during the war, they were ambushed near here and killed by Confederate troops. This story of divided loyalties is a common one in the remote mountains.

It was just six miles today and I really enjoyed it. I got here early enough. I might just build a fire.

Day thirty-five

I woke several times in the night and I was awake when Ken & Rangely crawled out of their tents. Ken is a marine biologist from Florida. Rangely is retired but I don’t know from what. She’s also a runner and she runs a camp for abused children.

I opened my eyes and there was a huge cricket. That thing looked like it was 3 inches long. They must be what is making all the noise at night. Fortunately it was on the outside of the tent. I got out of camp about 8 a.m. and had a 1200 foot climb. Eventually it looked like it evened out, which it did, and I was thinking what a nice 8 mile hike this was going to be, with the breeze blowing. The forests in Tennessee are too quiet. This is the Cherokee National Forest and they don’t have any birds. It’s too quiet, and when the fog rolls in it is too spooky. At least it wasn’t too hot today. Then it started getting rocky and it started going up and I’m thinking, “This can’t be right”, but it was.  There were two trails, High Ridge Trail with the white blaze and the other trail with the blue blaze. Had I known what High Ridge Trail was, I would have taken the other one. I stumbled and fell. I stubbed my big right toes twice. When I got to the top and took pictures I had a bar on my phone so I called CJ to see if she got home okay. Then on the way down there was this huge drop. I didn’t cry, but I did whine, “This can’t be the trail.”

I tried to go another way but that was the trail. I had to put my poles on one wrist and then lower myself down. When I got to the bottom there was a white blaze. It seemed like a really long bunch of rocks and at one point I slipped and landed on my butt, but my pack was in a good position so I just sat there for a while. I think Rangely and I are going to stay in the shelter tonight and it feels like it’s cooling off. 

Day thirty-four

On the trail

I got up early but messed around and didn’t leave camp until 10:00. While I was getting water, Ken came down to get water and I visited with him. He’s a biologist. He’s also heading to Erwin, TN., then stopping. Now that I am no longer a thru-hiker I have become a section hiker and I’m hiking between Hot Springs, NC and Erwin, TN. I’m fortunate to have Rangely and Ken to camp with at night. It was another long hot day. I don’t like hiking in this heat. I saw two deer at different times, a snail and lots of Bolete mushrooms.

I had pulled something in my groin so I took it easy most of the day. I also managed to work up a blister. All this time on the trail and this is my first blister. I got to Little Laurel Shelter hot and exhausted after 8.4 miles and I don’t know how much climbing. I got water. At least it was running better here than at the last shelter.  I set up my tent. The ground really is more comfortable than those shelters.  Had a bite to eat, ramen noodles. They weren’t bad since I haven’t had any for a month or more. I visited with Ken and Rangely and called it an early night and went right to sleep in spite of those noisy crickets.

I think I got a nap today. I straddled a log and leaned back on my pack. I closed my eyes and sat real still to catch the breeze, and then I dreamed! Yep, it was definitely a nap.

I smoked my last cigarette Monday, July 23, 2012.

*Editor’s note: Dear Tripper, you misspelled cigarette in your notes to me, so if you can’t spell it, you don’t need to be smoking it. Love, Editor

Day thirty-three

On the trail

I got a late start out of Hot Springs, but Lyle hiked with me until noon. We met a nice couple, Lindsey & Chester, with their dog, Sheba, and visited for awhile. Really neat people. It was hot, but not too bad since the trail goes over the guardrail and along the French Broad River- right across where we camped in the RV. Lyle went with me about 3 ½ miles because right after we parted I got to Pump Gap. It had a sign that said a group had planted wildflowers and such along the trail and I had to fight my way through those wildflowers that were chest high and very thick. I did not enjoy it.

I met a young man named Matt who was mushroom hunting. He told me all about Bolete mushrooms and how they have a solid surface instead of gills underneath.  He dries them and puts them in his food. You have to be careful, of course, and when you cut them, they should show red or blue. He was young, with long hair and a baseball cap. He was excited about mushrooming and he liked to share his knowledge. He said “Free food.” I identified some Bolete mushrooms on the way but will need to do some research before I collect them. I stopped and rested 50 paces before I came to a pretty little pond with a bench, so I sat anyway.

I ran into a man who asked how I was and I said ‘Good”. He responded, “It’s always a good day when you are on the trail.”

I followed the gravel road to Mill Ridge where a man said the Appalachian Trail went the other way. He pronounced all the “A’s” short but held them for a long time. Then I passed the trail going into the woods and was walking back when he passed me in his truck and told me it all ended up at the same place at the end of this road. I looked but could not find a way down so I started back down the road when here comes Matt in his truck. He told me the same thing and I told him I couldn’t find it. So I asked him if he would give me a ride because it was getting dark quick.

I grabbed some food out of my food bag and hung it. Then I set my tent up in the dark. Man, it felt good to lie down. I had my snacks and water. I’d grabbed the shelter log and found Salesman and Bunny.  Salesman had also signed his name on a little sign I saw coming through. I didn’t see Bob or Zigfoot but I remember that they didn’t often sign the logs. I hope Bob’s caught up with Salesman by now, that’d be great! Hiked 11 miles, climbed 2500 feet!

Guess who's getting ready to head back to the trail?

Chatting with Mom

One day while I was on the trail my mother was with me. (She’s been gone 20 years).

Mom: “Susan, what are you doing?”

Me: “Oh hi, Mom. I’m hiking the Appalachian Trail!”

Mom: “Why?”

Me: “Because I’ve been thinking about it and planning it for about 4 years and now is the time.”

Mom: “And you just up and left Lyle to take care of himself and everything else so you could do this hike?”

Me: “I didn’t leave him, Momma. When he gets through doing whatever it is he needs to do, he’ll join me.”

Mom: “You don’t expect him to hike with you, do you?”

Me: “Well, I was kind of hoping he would.”

Mom: “Well I don’t think he should, and I don’t think you should either. It just doesn’t make sense to me.”

Me: “Nothing I have ever done has made sense to you, Mother. I think you have always been so protective of Lyle.”

Mom: “Protective? I haven’t been protective of Lyle.”

Me: “Okay, maybe that was the wrong word. But he has always been your boy, ever since I brought him home.”

Mom: “Just because I like to bake for him doesn’t make him my ‘boy’. Besides, I know you don’t bake for him.”

Me: “No, Mom. I don’t bake for him. He does all his grocery shopping in the bakery department.”

Mom: “See, I knew that. Poor man.”

Me: “Oh, for Kripe’s sakes! I do know that the reason he’s always thought we are great cooks is because his mom did not know how to cook! Oh, how is she, by the way? How’s his whole family?”

(They’ve all gone on before him, even his two younger brothers.)

Mom: “She’s fine. They are all fine. Don’t try to change the subject. So why are you doing this hiking business?”

Me: “Okay, a long time ago Theresa sent me a map of the Appalachian Trail. I looked at it and filed it away. Then about 5 years ago I started reading about it. It’s a foot path that was established in 1937. Millions of people have traveled the 2,175 mile trail. See how nice the paths are? See how well they are marked with the white blazes? Even I can’t get lost. Are you the reason I’m directionally challenged?”

Mom: “No darling. That was your own luck of the draw.”

Me: “It’s so beautiful, mom. Every day I see something I haven’t seen before. The air smells so clean and I hear only the birds sing every day, all day. Even all the little animals I’ve seen. I love this.”

Mom: “You know you don’t have to worry about the bears. You make so much noise with that pack of yours they can hear you ½ mile away.”

Me: “Yeah, that’s what I figured. Your ‘boy’ hung this compass, mace and whistle on here before he let me leave the house.”

We just laughed together. 

Day Twenty-nine

On the trail. Today I climbed roughly 4,110 feet with ups and downs and back packed 11.3 miles. Yes, I’m impressed too. It took me 11 hours.

At Shuck Stack I climbed the fire tower. After missing 2 of them, I had to, and I’m glad I did. I took pics of Fontana Dam and the Little Tennessee River. I saw a bunch of men on the trail today, all heading south. The first two told me Zigfoot was sitting by the tower eating granola. The second two told me that, yes, that was the path to the fire tower and it was worth it. Zig must have spoken to everyone because they all had something to say about him to me. The last four people all told me Zigfoot left me a sign showing me where the water was. I took a pic.

Which way to the water?

What I didn’t see today; bears. 1600 bears in the Smokies and I didn’t see one. I did see bear scat on the trail. I saw a tree as big around as three men holding hands. I saw tiny little plants that reminded me of “Baby Tears.” Daddy had it growing in his greenhouse as ground cover but this was smaller. (Editor: YES! I remember that, so pretty!). There was this other plant, where the leaves look like rosa casha, but not the stems. I saw Mountain Spiderwort, Toothwort and Fire Pink.

Day Twenty-eight

Fontana Dam

What a great day! We started out early because it is 11 miles to the next shelter. We got to the top of the hill where the restrooms are and it started raining. I said ‘Rats, we need to put our rain covers on,” and Bob and Zig just turned around and headed back to the shelter. We took a day and went to the Village for lunch. Yum! We met a hiker named Left Field. He had lunch with us. All of his equipment was Highlight Mountain gear. He’s been hiking 30 miles a day. He had great legs. He was very personable and he went back to the shelter with Bob & Zig. I went to the Dam. The trail crosses over the dam and into the Smokey Mountains. I feel better today because I took a lot of Benedryl yesterday. I still have a little cough but my nose isn’t running. I met some really nice people at the dam and I bought a pin for my hat. I had no idea that the dam played such an important role in WWII, providing the power to build over 50,000 planes. They brought people in to work 3 shifts and got it done in 3 years. What a great country we live in. Left Field’s friend picked him up about 4:00 p.m. and we had happy hour at 5:00 p.m. with wine and cheese and crackers. We had spent some time getting our firewood together so that Bob broke out the hot dogs and buns. Feast! Some other people came to the shelter and Zig and Bob discussed whether they should warn them about my snoring. Zigfoot deadpanned, “They’ll find out.”

Retrieving firewood on the AT is no small feat. I got out my knife and Left Field had asked to borrow it. He then proceeded to chip away at wooden sticks on the concrete bench and instructed me that you need kindling for a fire. I was watching him and every time he shaved a piece he’d hit my knife blade on that concrete seat. I let him finish and then asked him if he had a whet stone so I could put an edge on my blade. He also said, “Nice knife,” when I handed it to him. Yes, I know…

Tripper's Trail Art

He said I could do it on the metal fire ring and I think I may have impressed him by doing just that. I went to work on this tree we couldn’t burn the night before while Bob was out gathering wood. Zigfoot was justing sitting stoically, watching the whole thing. I told him I wasn’t sharing my hot dog stick. He found a stick and started whittling. I’ll bet he whittled on that stick for an hour. Then Left Field left. During happy hour the 2 people that showed up turned out to be Stacey and Jared! I couldn’t believe it. They finished off the hot dogs, cheese and crackers. Jared did all the talking. Stacey wasn’t drunk and only said a couple of words all evening. Jared let me use his saw on the bigger part of the tree. The saw was only about 8 or 9 inches, it folded over and only weighed about 4 oz., made by Cameo. It was great! I gotta get me one of those! He seemed fine, but she was just too quiet and submissive. And she moved stuff around on the bench so she could sit right by him.

After I finished up with the tree and my hot dog stick Bob asked if I could throw that knife and I said, “Sure.” Zig asked, “From that far?’ and I told him, “No” and walked toward a big tree, maybe this far 2 out of 10 times. So Bob says, “Come on, Tripper, do it. You can do it.” So I did and totally missed the tree and threw my knife into the ground cover outside of the enclosed area. Bob helped me look for it and then I prayed to St. Anthony and told him I was sorry that I lied about throwing a knife and I promised I wouldn’t ever do anything that stupid again if he would help me find it. He answered by telling me to re-check the trajectory, so I did and I walked right to it.

Another thing Stacey did was she was setting up their stove to make coffee and I said, “I have cocoa!”

Jared said, “She’d like cocoa with her coffee.” He never asked our names or told us theirs but this morning he did say, “Bye Tripper.”

I prayed for Stacey again that night, thanked God for my family and a great day and thanked St. Anthony again for helping me find my knife.

Day Twenty-seven

Zigfoot took his time this morning. I think he was kind of waiting for me. We only had 5.5 miles to go to Fontana Dam. It started off kind of dark and drizzly, and then it seemed like the fog moved in. The woods seemed awfully close and I couldn’t see thirty yards in front of me.  I blew my whistle for awhile, then I started talking to myself. It wasn’t a bad hike, a couple of miles up and down and then down to NC 28. The shuttle picks you up for $3.00 and takes you to Fontana Village. Zig was in the store and told me a woman gave him a bunch of food and he didn’t want me to buy any. Then we went up the hill to the Willow café for lunch. All I bought was cheese and crackers, coffee, cocoa and cigarettes. I know! I was going to buy a pint of Jameson's and make me a hot toddy. I ended up with Benedryl. I don’t really know what to take so I hope this works because I feel crummy.

Fontana Hilton

The shuttle took us within 300 yards of the Fontana Hilton. This is so nice. Bob was here. He took a zero day. We all agreed that we are the last of the thru hikers. We are enjoying having the place to ourselves.

Bob’s gonna build a fire and I’m gonna sit in the sun for as long as it lasts. 

Day Twenty-six

I saw a beautiful vista view and I tried to get a picture. I was at Brushnell Knob.

 Zigfoot took a picture, and it seems to me that his pictures turn out better than mine.

He is posting his pics on trailjournals.com/zigfoot. Later, when I got to Hogsback Gap, there were benches!

They were made from a split tree. I heard a pillated woodpecker. I saw a pretty little bluebird who was on the path and was hurt. It got away from me as fast as it could. I also saw a snake and it wasn’t a garter snake, either. I got to Cody Gap at 10:22. I checked the time because Zig drew Zigfoot 9:00 in the dirt. It really wasn’t a bad hike today, 6 miles with a little up and down. Zig and I hung my rope because he lost his on the trail yesterday. I saw it, but didn’t pick it up. Rats. Then we gathered firewood. We’re heading into Fontana Dam tomorrow. Bob did 12 miles today so he could get there early. Zigfoot and I had a nice fire courtesy of me.

I hacked and coughed and had to get up about 6 times while at Cable Gap shelter. The last time I got up, Zig was up and said it was 3 a.m. Then the storm came. As far as storms go, it wasn’t too bad. 

Day Twenty-five

Morning conversation

Tripper: Bob, would you mind handing me my stove and coffee so I don’t have to get out of my sleeping bag?

Zigfoot: Sounds like you got used to that hotel living.

Bob: I don’t mind. I’m gonna get a cigarette out of the deal!

Tripper: That cigarette is sitting right there waiting for you! (Pause) I slept pretty good after I warmed up.

Zigfoot: You never missed a beat.

I guess since he bought me dinner, he can go back to giving me shit about my snoring.

Today was a 9 mile day with lots of ups and downs. I had to climb over 5 trees just from Sassafras Gap to this shelter. Where are the volunteers who take care of the AT?

Brown Fork Gap shelter

Ever since I made it to NC, I have been disappointed. There are no brooms in the shelters so you can’t sweep them out. No wood chips in the privies, like in Georgia. No bear lines.(Editor thinks the bears stole them all) Did I just get spoiled in Georgia or does North Carolina need some volunteers? This shelter has about two feet of the floor missing across the front of the shelter and no place to sit and eat. Although here the water source is close and not a ½ mile away uphill like some of the others. The trail is poorly maintained. There are a number of places where logs should be placed so to act like stairs. NC has good signs, as does NOC, but I’ve found little to like about the AT here.

Day Twenty-four

Last night I met a young girl on my way back from dinner at River’s End. She asked to bum a cigarette. Yes, I’m still smoking, I know. She was drunk. She said her name was Stacey and she’s been back packing with her boyfriend, Jared. He’s been making her do 15-20 miles a day and they’ve been fighting. They’ve not been staying in the shelters, but have been camping every night by themselves. They weren’t staying in base camp by camping in the campground at NOC. She called her dad and he told her he would fly her home. She also told me her little boy lives with his dad. Then she wanted to know if this was the right thing to do, meaning if this hike would help her find answers about herself, if it would help her clear her mind so she could know what to do with her life. She broke my heart.

I hugged her and told her if she wanted to sleep in my room tonight, there were three empty bunks, I had the room to myself. I told her I would be on my porch until dark. Then I met Jared. I didn’t like him. He just came across as one of those overbearing, domineering, egotistical, controlling assholes. She didn’t come to my room. He probably wouldn’t let her.

I said an extra prayer for Stacey last night that she gets stronger and realizes that “you gotta hike your own hike.”

I left base camp at 8 a.m. and realized I didn’t buy any coffee, tea or cocoa. Damn!

What was I thinking?

Met a couple of guys who were doing 20 miles a day and not enjoying it. Go figure. I’m enjoying myself. Today I have seen pine trees and pine cones. All I saw in Georgia were little baby pine trees that just looked like pom-poms among the rest of the foliage. I saw a raspberry bush with one red raspberry and another bush with lots of round green berries. I have no idea what they are. I’ve also seen a bunch of rust colored anthills. I haven’t seen any ants. I wonder if they’re big, black ones I’ve seen before. Also, someone or something has been hollering all morning. Sometimes it sounds human and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m steadily moving away from it so I’m not worried. I think it was a ground squirrel.

 I’m also hearing the train whistle.

It took me 9 hours to hike 7 miles up 3000 feet. That includes the stop for breakfast, so 8 hours. No one passed me on the trail so I knew I would be spending the night by myself. When the shelter came into sight, there sat Booger Bob and Zigfoot. I couldn’t help myself, I started crying…

Then came the comfortable banter. They said it was raining when they got up, so they decided to stay put and it rained all day at Sassafras shelter. They were making bets on whether I’d show up or not.

We all ate. Zigfoot got the weather report for the next day and they figured it was 9 miles to the next shelter. I’d bought Bob some candy bars at the Dollar store and he gave me cocoa mix. We got water and hung our food. Bob smoked a couple of my cigarettes. It got cold and I didn’t warm up until late in the night. I should have changed out of my damp clothes, duh.

A family of 8 moved in right after dark. They set up tents and made a fire. They were really nice this morning. When they came in, I woke up and had to pee, of course.

Well I thought they had enough light for me to see so I didn’t turn on my head lamp. I tripped over the side of the shelter and fell into a patch of wet grass and leaves with a big Ooof! I warmed myself by their fire this morning before I left. Nice family.

Picture of the day

Good morning, KC, love Tripper

Tripper is on a break

Hello everyone!
Editor here.
Tripper's handler recently mentioned to me that he has received several calls of concern for Tripper because there haven't been any recent updates.
Well, roughly around June 8th, Tripper's knight in shining armor swooped in and carried her off to Georgia for some R&R.
She contracted bronchitis on the trail and is recouping at her sister's home. She has lost 15 pounds from all her walking and she looks fantastic!
If we could only get her to quit smoking- and trying to pawn off her fat girl clothes on me...
But I digress.
She has provided me with a week's worth of posts to work on, and she plans on picking up the trail once she is well rested and feeling healthy again.
When I have a minute, I will work on her recent post info, so stay tuned!

Day Twenty-Three

Still not on the trail. I stayed at Relax Inn on Main Street in Bryson City. $50.00 and I couldn’t get any hot water for a shower. I waited for the pharmacy to call me and they didn’t- but when I called them my medicine was ready. I did not relish walking up that hill again so I called the shuttle. He came right over. His name is Bill Smith. I told him it sounded like an alias to me. He just laughed and told me it would cost me $25.00 to take me to the pharmacy and back, then he laughed again and said it was $2.00. I thanked “Mister Smith” for the ride and he said, “Susan, my name is Bill.” He was a fun old guy. Oh, and I had breakfast at Everett Street Café. Everett is my dad’s name. It was good, too! Bacon, eggs, hash browns, toast and coffee for $5.50. Good deal!

I could have ridden the train! It leaves every morning at 10:45 a.m. and stops at NOC. Darn it! I’ve never ridden on a real train. I packed my stuff and pulled out my sign and barely made it to the corner when these two young women in a black truck whistled and told me to hop in back. And I did it! Pack and all, up and over and into the bed of that truck. I ‘d have liked to have seen a video of that. Sometimes I amaze myself. Kelley and Krista, they are really pretty girls who run a farm outside of town and grow fresh produce for the local markets. They dropped me at the entrance to the highway and told me I’d catch a ride in no time. Thanks ladies!

The fourth car was a truck, I tossed my pack in the back and hopped in with Roy & Bella. Bella is a Spaniel mix. Her mom was a spaniel and her papa was a “no good hound.” Roy’s family has been in the area for four generations. He lost his wife to cancer almost 3 years ago so it’s just him and Bella, “it’s all that’s left.”

They like to go fishing and they were headed to NOC to go fishing for trout in the Nantahala. He’s got a boat, but today they were just gonna fish from the bank. Bella gets the first one. She likes sushi. She also likes to carry it around and show everyone her fish. Roy dropped me right at the outfitters store. I love the North Carolina people. I’m sitting at Slow Joe’s, at a table, in a chair with a back. Oh yeah! Not 10 feet from the river, sipping lemonade, playing peek a boo with a Betsy Wetsy lookalike. As soon as I work up some energy, I’ll climb the hill to base camp and do some laundry and get a ‘hot’ shower. Oooo, maybe I’ll take an afternoon nap!

Squirrel!

I didn’t get my nap, but what I did get was all clean clothes, clean sleeping bag, clean body, teeth and new contacts. I feel good.

It must have been my evening for critters because every time I came back to my room I startled this squirrel. When I realized that he was checking out the trashcan I left him some cheerios from my pack. The next time I came back they were gone. There’s a group of school kids staying here at base camp for their end of the year trip and the little girls were squealing and carrying on while I was doing my first load of laundry. There was a little frog in the shower room, so I was afraid that he was traumatized because he didn’t move for a long time, but he’s fine now. Then they wanted me to remove all the Daddy Long Legs. There were three. Then while I was waiting for my sleeping bag to dry, the biggest black widow spider I ever saw walked right up to me. I got pics. (Editor's note: Yeah, NO.)

I watched ½ dozen ducks play in the Nantahala while I was eating my dinner. I’m calling it an early night. I want to get to the trail first thing in the morning. I’m going to be in the Smokey Mountains in 4 or 5 days!

Day Twenty-two

NOT on the trail. My day started kinda crazy. The card I had for my room wouldn’t open the door. So I had to hike all the way down the hill to the office and, yes, I am adding those miles to my total and got my card recoded. Weird, huh? Back up the hill, and when I finished packing I found another card! I have no idea how I could have picked up someone else's card!
I called the two numbers I got from Zig Foot for a shuttle to Bryson City. The first one was no longer in service and the second said she had a flat tire and couldn't help me until tomorrow. So I went down to the Outfitter store (and I didn't buy one thing) and asked them how to get to the hospital in Bryson City. They told me to make a sign and stand out front with my pack on and someone would pick me up. OMG!
Well... I did and this really nice young man name Ryan picked me up! I sent him in the wrong direction to begin with because when he programmed his GPS in his car, he had to turn around. I really do NOT like being directionally challenged. He had just come off the trail and had picked up his car. He was going to grab a shower at NOC and some lunch. He had another whole day to get back home. The guy hiked over 120 miles in less than a week! I was so impressed! Neither one of us realized how far it was to the hospital, but he brought me right to the front door, so I gave him $20.00, thanked him and said I'd buy his lunch and a beer. 
He thought he might sit by the water and while away the day and even do some white water rafting. I want to do that! I'll wait for Lyle, though. 
Swain County Hospital got the order from my doctor in a hurry and drew my blood. They said it would be a couple of hours before they got the results, so I took off down the hill. There is a cute little part of Bryson City with a train station and a museum of Lionel trains, a couple of gift shops, an ice cream parlor and a Dollar General. 
The Cottage Craftsmen is where I bought a cute little piece of pottery and shipped it home. I took several pictures.

Nantahala River

 I am currently sitting outside Tuckasegee Tavern having a rum runner, sitting at a picnic table and having a lovely afternoon. This AT trail has turned me into a hitch hiking, toilet paper stealing, money spending, afternoon drinking grammy!

Non smiling old guy

I am SO BRAVE! I guess I'll make another sign saying NOC and try to head in the right direction and see what happens. This is the best! I'm also gonna get a lemonade for the walk back up the hill to the hospital.
 The old guy in the photo in front of the tavern wouldn't even smile at me. That's why I took his picture. 
I'll bet I walked 5 miles around the town of Bryson City. It has been a fun 'down' day. No, I won't be adding that to my mileage, because it doesn't count if I'm not on the trail backpacking. And for some reason my debit card doesn't work! I don't know what the heck is going on, but I hope it was Bryson City and not my card. I weighed myself and I've lost 7 1/2 pounds. Whoo Hoo! I do think my body looks better, of course that could be wishful thinking. 
I'm just waiting for the doctors on call in K.C. Come on docs, light a fire under yourselves, I've got trails to burn!
Grrrr, the pharmacy was closed and the shuttle didn't run into town that late. I hitched my pack and headed into town. I got a room and went to Mickey's Pub. They didn't have any food, but Adam made great rum runners. I flirted with some guy named Geno who said he was the "last nice guy". It was a great place with all these bras hanging all over. (Editor's note: Lovely. My Aunt Tripper is drinking in a frat house. Did you lose your sports bra, Tripper?)

Adam said that when a girl gives up her bra, she gets a free shot. I was hungry, so I didn't stay. I walked a couple of blocks toward my hotel and came upon Jimmy Mac's Restaurant. OMG! It was so quaint with old photos in frames with beveled glass. There was some antique furniture, old jugs and some old crocks in a back corner. My salad had homeade croutons. I ordered shrimp stuffed with crab meat and a loaded baked potato. There weren't any bacon bits- they were strips of bacon! I also had fresh green beans and Mondavi merlot. I ate for an hour. I am no longer disappointed I didn't make NOC tonight. 

Day Twenty-one

I followed Zig out of the shelter around 8:00 a.m. It was spitting rain and he wanted to wait. I found out he’s a retired postal employee like me! What a hoot!

Slow Joe's 

Of course he left me behind in a hurry but it was a nice hike and I got to NOC, Nantahala Outdoor Center in about 6 miles. Bob & Zig were already here and we couldn’t check in until 3 p.m. It’s a really nice resort area. It has a restaurant called River End and an Outfitter store that I did not visit. It also had a bar, Slow Joe’s, a white water rafting place and then up the hill is a place with buildings, mess hall and showers for the overnight thru hikers. I took my boots off, put my crocs on and waded into the water. I say waded, but I only went up to my ankles. It was cold! The Nantahala River runs right through the middle of it. Man, it felt good. We all sat around until 3:00 p.m. check in and when we did they told us that they separate the genders. I looked at Zig Foot and said, “Did you hear that? You won’t have to hear me snore tonight.”  He grinned and said, “There is a God.”  He and I caught a shuttle into Bryson City and we bought some stuff. I got wine and shampoo and when we got back I said I was going to eat. He said he was ready to eat again, and that ole guy treated me to dinner. Bless his heart. It made me cry. I guess he really appreciated me picking up his sleeping pad and pack cover. We climbed back up the hill. (Oh, and I’m adding all this footage up to my total when I add up my hiking mileage, you better believe it!). About the time I was ready for my shower, a dozen little girls beat me to the bathroom, so I went up to visit the guys. On my way, I saw Joshua. I guess he was here for the night. I was talking with him and I met Joe. He’s here with his son and daughter, Taylor. She has the room next to mine, and they put three other little girls in her room. These two were in and out, and I asked the son, Jake, if his dad had dinner ready. He told me, “Not yet.” I said something about it not being very long now and he said, “I know, right?” Just like my grandson, Grant! They are both fourteen, thousands of miles apart. Unbelievable.

Anyway, I was still waiting on the showers, hanging around the kitchen and Joe offered me a pork chop. I didn’t think I was hungry, but they did look good so I took one and ate it right off the bone, with my fingers- and my wine. It was delicious! Thanks Joe!

I’m off to Bryson City tomorrow to sit at the hospital for a zero mile day and get my medicine because the hospital in Hiawassee never sent my INR to my doctor. Shit!

Day Twenty

On the trail. Amy, Jeff and I camped at Wayah Crest picnic area. I started a little fire. Of course I was first up, after that early morning potty break. I just can’t go to bed. Amy & Jeff took off and that was the last I saw of them until we met at Wayah Bald stone observation tower. They decided to head back so they wouldn’t have to hike 11 miles on Monday. I ain’t mad at them. I’m so glad they came and hiked with me. Amy even brought me a flask of Jameson’s.

*Note to hikers: Pack a pint of Jameson’s. It’s great for sipping around the campfire.

Amy & Jeff are going to camp a couple of miles south of the tower. I hiked on into Wayah Shelter and guess who is here. Bob, Zig foot, J2, Swamp Donkey (I changed it to Swamp Ass) and Gandolph. I didn’t have much to say about him before, but a guy stopped at the shelter with a guitar and Gandolph played wonderfully while the owner ate. I was very impressed. The water was quite far from the shelter so J2 said he’d go with me. Such a nice guy. I’m older than his parents and he is so sweet. He used to be a boy scout. He’s taking off tomorrow and I don’t think I’ll see him again because he can really move. We got enough firewood to have a really nice fire. We’re just waiting for this group of men to finish their dinners so we can move in. That Zig Foot would not let me get water for him so I brought back my pro filtered bag and he wouldn’t use it. He is so silly. 

I’m sitting here at Tellico Gap. It’s a power line parking area. I took off my boots and smoked the other cig. I KNOW!

Watched some guys in a truck unload their packs into another truck and take off. They waved at me. Then I watched a lost fat bumblebee. He must have been lost because he kept going around and around looking for a flower and not finding one. I’ll bet he hung out for a good two minutes before he gave up.  I’ve got two miles to go before I get to Wesser Bald Shelter.

Unfortunately, it’s about a 500 foot climb over 2 miles, that shouldn’t be too bad.

I passed a water sign on my way to the shelter and I thought “Hmmm… maybe this is the water source.”

But did I stop? Noooo, I kept on going and when I got there, Zig Foot says, “ Hey Tripper, you want the good news or the bad news?”

I said, “Rats, that was the stinking water source?”

Oh, he and Booger Bob thought that was sooooo funny. We started talking about the day’s hike and they asked how I liked the tower.  Tower? I missed the tower. I saw the rocks that looked like a great place to sit so I did. I saw a lookout and I saw the trail. After I looked out I hit the trail and missed the damned tower. That’s 2 out of 3 that I missed and I could have seen Fontana Dam from there. I missed the damned dam.  Then these two kids came to the shelter and this one said he killed a rattlesnake with his slingshot and he was going to clean it and eat it! I think I’ve had rattlesnake before- it tastes like chicken. (editor note: Bwhahahahahaha).

Zig Foot said he’d walk back up the hill with me to get water. The guidebook said it was .1 mile but it was all uphill. I am not very happy with North Carolina but I’m going to withhold my opinion until I am clear of this state! That kid was up there by the water source cleaning that snake! YUK!

A thirsty flutterby

I forgot to mention at Tellico Gap this man pulled up in a Jeep with a family and he approached me  and said, “I’ve got water and snacks if you’d like some.” I passed on the snacks but I drank a bottle of water. (no streams in North Carolina- more later) and shot the breeze with him while the family wandered around. Nice man. Everyone I’ve met has been really nice, even in N.C. 

Day Nineteen

On the trail.

Wait up, Amy!

 We drove back up to Winding Stair Gap and Jeff took the lead. The only way I caught up with Amy was because she kept stopping to take pictures of the flora. We decided to have lunch at Siler Bald Shelter and you won’t believe who was there! Booger Bob & Zig Foot! They are so funny! I’m glad Amy & Jeff got to meet them. And that pack cover did not belong to Mountain Man, it belonged to Zig! I told him, “Mister, you better pack up good tomorrow because I won’t be here to pick up after you.”

We took our picture together. I found out his real name is Frank and he’s from Ohio, like Jeff. We hiked a ways further. It was like ½ uphill from that shelter and came to a big open area with tall grasses. Amy & Jeff went on up this hill and could see 360 degrees. Amy took pics and it was beautiful. We came to a high spring that is pure water because water was coming right out of the mountain.

Tripper & Zig Foot

Jeff found a wonderful campsite so we set up and built a fire. We hiked six miles today- plus the mile in and out of the shelter, plus they went up that hill and then they went back to the spring for water. I did 7 miles and they did 8 or 9. I am finally CAMPING! I love it!

I got to set up my new tent and Jeff suggested no rain flies. It’s a beautiful night. The birds are still singing even though the sun has set. Ready to sit by the fire. Oh, and I love Jeff. He is such a neat guy.

Day Eighteen

Hiked 4 ½ miles and ended up on a road. I guess I could have turned around and headed back into the woods but I decided to walk on down toward Franklin. It was nice. There was a beautiful little community down over the side of the road and there were three older ladies just walking and a talking in their North Carolina accents.

I only walked about a mile when this couple picked me up in their minivan. Eric & April had been camping and the van was loaded, but they worked my pack and me in. They have 3 beautiful children and the baby was blonde with the biggest blue eyes I ever saw. They dropped me at the drugstore right between Sonic and Three Eagles Outfitters and even turned around and came back once they realized I had left my poles in their van. Such nice people!

I ate good at Sonic then went to Three Eagles Outfitters and got my Camel back, some gloves and some fuel. I then caught a taxi to Hampton Inn. Wow, was that nice! I walked down to the strip mall in my Frogger gear and crocs to do laundry and shopping. I plugged my poor dead phone in. I’m sure I was quite a sight. The night manager even said something to Laurie about me and Laurie told her who I was. (Apparently Tripper is kind of a big deal on the AT).

 I finished my laundry and shopping, so I bought some crackers and a bottle of Yellowtail merlot. On my way through the lobby I snagged some tea, cocoa and Splenda to add to my food supply. I called everyone I knew. Once they arrived, Amy, Jeff and I sat outside, drinking their beer and finishing off my wine. 

Day Seventeen

I slept with Al Pacino back in his ‘Serpico’ days. My emails are not going through. I am running low on my medicine and I ran out of toilet paper. You gotta ‘hike your own hike”. I got hot chocolate yesterday from a couple and Al gave me coffee this morning. Two days to Franklin, and it looks like it might not rain today. My day started out tough. I stayed at Carter Gap Shelter and was ready to crawl under the shelter when I realized there was plenty of floor space after everyone got in their bags, so Al and I spread the tarp on the floor. All I had was a roof and I watched the light of day fade into the night over the mountain in Nantahala Forest.

Everyone got an early start and I messed around, drank coffee, washed my teeth and swept my tarp. Then I went down three wrong paths until I begged a camper to show me the trail. “Al” left his pack cover and I know he’s going to Rock Gap Shelter tonight.